Tharrrr she blows!

Today has been all about whales and trying to find them. And not any regular type whales, we are targeting orca!

First off, we left from the hotel in Port Hardy for a one hour drive to the boat stationed at Telegraph Cove. After a quick an well made coffee (thanks!) We embarked on a 3.5 hour voyage into Johnston Straight to go hunting for the elusive killer whales.
Right after we left the port the captain heard other whaling vessels chatter about a pod of ‘transient’ orcas hanging around quite a distance away. So he gunned it. 2 500 horsepower Caterpillar engines revved up and made us go fast. ;-)

There’s actually a lot of non-connected groups and extended families amongst the recognized types of orca (not subspecies!); resident, transient and offshore orca. The first and latter types eat fish, the transient pedal live between the gulleys and the open ocean and feed on marine mammals. Offshore orca very rarely come anywhere near the shores while resident orca live right off the beaches and islands.

To avoid boring everyone with the chase of orca and humpback and the excitement amongst us, here is a list of animals we encountered:
Eagle
Dall’s porpoise
Orca
Humpback whale
A lot of birds, I don’t know the names of. :-)

Tomorrow an equally exciting day as we are going on the hunt for grizzly bears!

We’re on a boat

Auch. We have had some early mornings, but this one takes the cake. Our watches and phones were set to alarm at 04:00 and 04:05 to enable us to stagger to our breakfast at 04:30. Yes, you read that right: breakfast at 04:30.

After gobbling down some toast, a very doughy turnover, my first coffee of many to come this day and some Apple juice we set off to join the line for boarding the BCFerries ferry from Prince Rupert to Port Hardy. This boattrip is called the Inside Passage as it hugs the coastline and travels in between the mainland of Canada and the multitude of islands which are just off the coast. It is said this is one of the best trips on a ferry one can do. I have not been on a lot of ferries, but I really like this one. Even though it is 8 hundred some nautical miles and takes over 15 hours.

The entire trip, there are a few things to look at: the straight the boat travels in, the pine covered islands that surround the straight and the marine life living there.
Awesome!

The journey is very tiresome but very satisfying. Knowing you travelled an entire day with very little effort is really comforting. ;-)

Off to see white bears

No, we are not that northerly yet. ;-)
They are called Kermoda bears, also know locally as ghost bears or spirit bears. They have a recessive gene which makes them white or off-white in color. All natural! It’s like with redheads in humans.
Regular Black bears also have color variations, as they come in a variety of colors, among which are black (obviously), brown, grey, cinnamon, blue and for the Kermoda bears we can add cream, and various shades of white to the list.

Unfortunately, there’s only a small population of these bears, and of those only 10% is actually white, and we didn’t see any of them.

This part of British Columbia is very rich in Indian culture, and quite a few Forts Nations tribes still call this land home. The people live their lives pretty much the same way as their ancestors, but with the help of modern amenities like motorized vehicles, running water, electricity, modern fabrics and modern tools.

We started our little tour today with a view of fishing indigenous people at Moricetown Canyon, where the river is forced through a small canyon of bedrock which gives the people the best chance of catching salmon (we are in the salmon season tour now!) with catchpoles and fishing nets from a rocky outcrop, just like they did generations ago. Catching is done selectively and only as much as they need, so it is granted by the province for them to keep their catch, as regular fishermen, both commercial and leasure fishermen are not permitted to keep the salmon they catch.

After watching some pretty big salmon being caught, we carried on driving and headed for New Hazelton where the local suspension bridge was rumoured to be worth a visit. It actually is quite an interesting bridge, as it’s really narrow and only suitable for light loads. When walking on it the bridge flexed and moved with every car entering it. The signs told us it was way better than the old one, as it would violently sway under the loads and was not suited for any vehicle at all!

The trip continued on to Terrace, but on the way we actually ran into some more wildlife! First a couple of black bears; a mother and her two cubs! All black, black bears by the way. ;-)
After this, we also ran into what seamed a  rather large domestic cat. What stood out though, was the fact it only had a really short tail and was pretty bulky for a cat. Too flabbergasted to take a picture we finally figured out what had scurried across the road: lynx! Nice!

The drive from Smithers to Prince Rupert is awesome in many ways, take the massive river system you encounter the final 75km, where the river broadens and mingles with the sea, and you drive right alongside it on sea level. Really picturesk. Throw in some more stunning scenery and 5 hours driving turns into a festive pasttime.

Tomorrow we are going to board a boat. For quite some time actually. And *really* early. We are supposed to check in at 05:30 am!

Covering the distance

Today was a pretty dull day actually. We started off this morning on high spirits with a good breakfast and the prospect of some driving and some nice activities.
Unfortunately, the latter has bot proven to be right. Nor has the first for that matter.

The drive itself was good, yet dull. I mean, call us spoiled, but after nearly 4000 km of pine forests and small lakes, you get the point. Today the road was scarcely used and from time to time we passed through small communities about the size of your average street with nearly all businesses closed down and buildings in shambles. Not too pretty to the eyes, but a realistic image we’ve encountered before and probably will hereafter.

We were looking forward to the activities we though of; small hikes, interesting natural phenomena and good views all around. That was until we stopped in Houston where the nice ladies from the Visitor Center looked at us sheepishly when we told them we wanted to hike and had a cleancut message for us: not here.

So we went on.
And found out that even though the landscape was good and getting better, the hiking was next to impossible. Only very short hikes (10 minutes or less) or very long and strenuous (6 hours +) were available. That’s is not for us.
To top this, we went out to a site reportedly giving access to fossil beds and good sightseeing options where we found out the beds were inaccessible, protected and not viewable as they were 30 meters up on a steep hillside littered with rocks and gravel. It had a nice wheelchair accessible road though! Equality! :-)

Finally, we went out to a suggestion by the guy from the Smithers Visitor Center: a 2 hour return hike to a nice viewing point which overlooks the majority of the valley and gives nice views of the adjourning snow capped mountains. This was a good trail over some private property, but well worn and easy to follow.
A good end to a weird day.
Maybe we are getting tired, maybe we are spoiled. Let’s hope tomorrow is a better day.

Unfortunately, no pictures today.

Hills and lakes

This post might also have been called ‘Rushing for Gold, part 2′ as we are still driving over the Cariboo Wagon Road, or Gold Rush Route. Now stopping at Prince George for a well deserved break, todays journey has been quite long, strenuous and quicker than anticipated.

TomTom and Google both told us, today would be a full 5 hour drive, when we would drive without stops and in a straight line. This would mean missing out on some stuff on the way, and was simply not acceptable for us. So we told ourselves we would simply start off, and see when we’d arrive where and go from there.
Soon, it turned out both TomTom and Google were grotesquely overestimating the durations, as we covered the first 3.5 hours in just 2.

This got us going; to Barkerville. A 4 hour drive (160km return) to a gold rush town from the late 1800′s which pretty much was preserved in that state by continuous occupation up until the 1970′s.

Barkerville is the town where the 1860 gold rush stated with a certain gentleman Barker struck gold. And a very rich strike that was. In todays money it would be around 70 million EUR! This sparked an influx to Williams Creek and soon all land there was claimed. Mining over there still takes place today and a very large deposit has been proven to be there by the current claim holders.

The town has been actively occupied from around 1860 to 1972, and acquired by the province of British Columbia in 1954. The last of the original inhabitants left in 1972 and now no full time residents remain. Still, a few houses are privately owned and used as housing for a period of time each year. That is, while the park is open to visitors! Weird.

In Barkerville, all houses are on display and staffed by employees who are age correct dressed for 1870 and participating in a simulated regular working day back then. In the meantime they are teaching us visitors what the life back then was like. Very entertaining, and a joy to see how much the employees love their job. Very enthusiastically yelling everyone about ‘their’ Barkerville and it’s rich history.

Luckily for is, the drive to Barkerville wad not 2 hours one way as predicted but 2 hours return, which left us another 2 hours drive to Prince George.Oh well, we are here now. :-)
Tomorrow, another busy day while travelling to Smithers.

PS: we spotted our very first Moose today! Yay! Also a very placid black bear who allowed us to take a very good look at him while he was fouraging. Lovely!

Pictures will follow soon!